The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Modern Britain: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's buzzing 1990s artistic milieu, moving from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that energy."

Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is not the only one. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. However over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

A Cultural Backslide

This change is increasingly evident: the resurgence of far-right politics, the backlash against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, today a more divisive political force appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the Union Jack, once an badge of cultural optimism, has become contentious again.

According to Enninful, the response has always been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from music.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he asserts, discussing those editorial decisions. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I cherished. I hope this moment will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and people from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers declared I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being between worlds."

Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His life has included its share of hardship, including publicly shared struggles with depression and substance use.

He has also faced serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a dark place for two years, not working, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to fit into a box has inspired him away from the realm that established him. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who did not receive due recognition at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to shine a light on the right artists because they lacked the expected background," he states.

This project itself operates on a unique approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "We ask, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He smiles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."